

Now focus as best you can on some of the products you need to photograph. Put it on your camera and zoom it to 100mm, then use a piece of tape to temporarily fix it at that focal length. You can probably get a better idea by doing a quick test with your 55-250 lens. This is exacerbated when using the lens on a crop sensor camera.

so the lens' minimum focusing distance isn't so important in this case, and with a 100mm you will actually end up some distance from the subject when photographing it. Your shots are no where near the 1:1 magnification the 100mm and many other macro lenses can do. With small product photography you have to consider your working distance too. Macro lenses set to their highest magnification will put you pretty darned close but. The minimum focusing distance determines the lens' magnification capabilities. A macro lens is simply designed to have a much, much closer minimum focusing distance. That's the closest it can focus on its own (i.e., unless you add extension tubes behind it). 29 magnification or roughly 1:3 or one third life size.Įvery lens has a minimum focusing distance. For example, the Canon 24-70/2.8 is really close focusing, capable of. Some zoom lenses actually get pretty close. but that probably wouldn't sell as many lenses. Most cannot focus close enough to get into truly macro magnifications and might be better labelled "Close Focusing". It's become common for manufacturers to add a "Macro" label to a lot of their zoom lenses. The prime lens simply has fewer moving parts, a smaller number of lens elements and is a lot less complex. Pretty much all true macro lenses are primes, because it's much easier to build a high precision prime lens, than it is a precision zoom lens. you are mixing up certain terminology in a somewhat confusing way.Ī zoom is a lens that changes focal length (eg., your 18-55 and 55-250).Ī prime is a fixed focal length (eg., your 50mm). But, please read my additional comments about using extension tubes, below.įirst, to clarify. With a set of three tubes, you get a total of seven different possible arrangement. I recommend the Kenko or Adorama sets (of three different size tubes) as the best values that are still very easy to use. It's just too long a focal length for your particular purposes, when mounted on a crop sensor camera.)Īny lens' close focusing ability (the problem with your 50/1.8 ) can be increased simply by adding a macro extension tube behind it. (This isn't to say that the 100/2.8 Macro lens isn't good. On any crop sensor camera, a 100mm lens act as a significantly "longer" telephoto. Also, Canon and others design some lenses to only be usable on crop sensor cameras. This has to be considered when choosing a lens, unfortunately. The smaller sensor models - like yours - are commonly referred to as "crop sensor" cameras.
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Your camera has a smaller sensor than a full frame camera like a 5D MkII or a film SLR. In fact, you will likely be stopping down quite a bit to get more depth of field.Īlan Myers "Walk softly and carry a big lens."ĥDII, 7DII, 7D, M5 & others. You don't really need a large aperture lens for this sort of work. When you have to shoot 100 items and need to take 3 or 4 views of each one for the customer to select, you really don't want to be running back and forth arranging things. The main reason to use these shorter focal length lenses is that they allow you to work close enough so that you can reach out and arrange the items while keeping your eye to the viewfinder.

I can control the plane of focus to either get the entire object in focus or deliberately narrow it to emphasize just one aspect. I prefer tilt shift lenses for this purpose for the reason given already. If shooting with full frame, I'd prefer a 75mm TS lens, but Canon doesn't make one. Personally I use 45mm TS-E for small product/tabletop shots, when using crop sensor cameras. For this type of shots a 100mm macro will be too long on your crop sensor cameras, unless you like working from a step ladder and/or have a really big studio.Ī shorter macro like the 60mm Canon or Tamron might be a good choice.
